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A Novice Coffee Roaster’s Adventure, Part Two


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cofffee-beans-064-625p.jpg

Part One concluded after three minutes of roasting, with the beans taking on some color. Next, or so we had read, would come the first of two “cracks.” The heat causes the beans to expand, crack and shed a papery chaff. Sure enough, at about 4:30, we hear the first crack and begin to see some smoke and steam. Time to crank up those hood fans.

Now this is starting to look and smell like coffee:

beans-6-minutes-625p.jpg

Mistake number two, though not on the magnitude of the Whirly Pop fiasco, is that I should be wearing a glove on my stirring hand. That, or I need a longer spoon. The heat is intense.

With the beans now cracking steadily, I’m noticing that chaff is raining down on everything within a three foot radius of the pan. Nothing the vacuum attachment won’t take care of with minimal effort, but I now see why some suggest roasting outdoors over a hot grill.

At this juncture, the only disappointment is the uneven color. I begin to stir with more urgency, hoping to even them out.

The first crack subsides at about 6:00 but picks up again a minute later. This must be the second crack we’d read about. Again, right on schedule. At this point, the beans are a solid medium roast with an odd darker bean sprinkled in. The color is evening out and the beans have taken on an oily sheen. Not bad.

Paranoid as we are about scorching them and ending up with a wretched “Starbucks roast,” we decide to pull the plug after about eight minutes.

At this point the idea is to cool the beans as quickly as possible. Two metal strainers do the trick, as we pour the beans back and forth between them to expose them to as much air as possible for even cooling, shaking off remaining chaff in the process. We discover that the beans carry-over cook for minutes after being removed from the pan. The good news is that the color is much more even than when we took them off; the bad news is that you will end up with a slightly darker roast than you thought you expected. I’ll take that into account by pulling the beans off a bit early in the future.

As soon as the beans are cool enough to handle, I insist on grinding and brewing them. Mistake number three. It is recommended that the beans rest for 24 hours before brewing. While I don’t know much about the science, they continue to emit gas and moisture during this rest period. For this reason, it’s also recommended that your beans be stored overnight in a brown paper sack which will allow them to breathe. By sticking your nose in the bag you can smell a difference after only a couple hours. The aroma is noticeably deeper and richer.

Naturally, my impatience led to disappointment. The first brew tasted a thin and sharp with a short finish. Not bad, mind you, but not nearly what it would be the following day. Lesson learned.

After a proper day’s rest, this coffee is as good as any I’ve tasted and far superior to most. Maybe that was because my labor was invested in the project? Not that it matters.

For B/SOTLs who prefer to pair their favorite smokes with a fresh cup of joe, you have to give this a shot. In the end, you’ll have better, cheaper coffee, custom roasted to your taste. With a glove or a long wooden spoon (and minus the heinous Whirly Pop) the process is painless. Trust your eyes and nose and you’ll fare well. And it’ll make your house smell awesome for a good eight hours. Enjoy!

61 comments

1 cigarfan { 06.09.08 at 2:46 pm }

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Brave man! I’ve been using an IRoast2 for almost two years now and I just can’t go back to the store bought stuff, even the quality store bought stuff. I love roasting up a batch and smoking a cigar in the garage. Pan roasting in the house is another story altogether. Consider yourself initiated. Welcome to the loyal order of Home Roasters!

2 Kevin { 06.09.08 at 3:29 pm }

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It’s good to be a Member, Sir. Roastin’ it up cowboy-style! Just roasted another pound and a half moments ago. One of the greatest smells in world, isn’t it? I’d been drinking Newman’s Colombian, which is okay as store bought goes, but there’ll be no going back for me either.

3 Jeremy { 06.12.08 at 12:49 am }

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Tanzanian Peaberry and Papua New Guinea are some of my favs. You gotta let me know how those turn out.

4 Kevin { 06.12.08 at 6:10 am }

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Hey, Jeremy. Both have been excellent, though the roast did more justice to the Peaberry. I went just a hair darker than I should have with the Papua NG. To my palate, a little lighter is better, or else that buttery texture on the finish gets overwhelmed.

5 Chris Trotter { 06.24.08 at 5:21 pm }

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I’ll have to go with cigarfan on this. Pick up an iRoast2. The beans will come out nice an even although it may take you a few trials to get a roasting profile that works to your taste. Interesting article. Only a true coffee nut would go to all the effort that you are. Keep up the good work!

6 Kevin { 06.24.08 at 5:37 pm }

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Hey, Chris. Thx for reading! The iRoast is certainly the next step in the event I tire of the skillet method. Though I’m getting pretty good at it by using eye and ear! A cool epilogue is that Seven Bridges Cooperative gave me a credit for the WhirlyPop + shipping cost + 15% off my next purchase. So I have another seven pounds en route. Next I’ll try an order from Sweet Maria’s, which appears to have a wider selection. Best, K

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